Food in Cagliari is generally good, although it is not cheap as it used to be. You should normally expect to spend at least 20 euros for a pizza based dinner and from 30-50 euros for a fish or meat based dinner.

There are a couple of tricks that you should know to help you save a little bit of money, not to waist food and still eat well.

One of these, is to “watch out” when you are offered the “giro di antipasti” (“a round of starters”). Most waiters will offer you this choice and you might think this only involves a couple of starters. You may say yes, and then order a first  course or even a second dish as well. By the time all your mix starters come around though, 6-7 dishes are on the table and you realise that this is enough food already!
Mix starters are very trendy in Cagliari but that is often what kills your bill. So, make sure of what they include, how much they cost and how hungry you are! What I often do, is to order the rest of my meal only after having eaten the starters (not ideal if it is late and the restaurant is overcrowded though).

The other tip is on wine. Bottled wine is not sold by the glass. Of course, you might feel like treating yourself for a good meal and taste one of the famous and prestigious local wines but be aware that the house wine is often good anyway. You could even ask to have a taste of that before making your choice.

Third tip is about tips! Should you or should you not tip? and how much? Well, Sardinians do not tip. Your bill always includes an item called “coperto”, which is basically the service.

Which restaurants would I recommend?
I would not go to chains like the pizzeria “Rossopomodoro”. They got not character and the pizza is not even good. I did not like it at all.

For traditional Sardinian atmosphere and food based on meats and pastas you can try “Su Cumbidu”. It is pretty central (Via Napoli) and is got lot of character. In the summer you can also eat outdoors. Last time I went, we had some starters, a main course each, coffee & house whine and we spend about 25-30 Euros. Sardinian liqueur and sweets is on the House.

If you like good fish and the “trattoria” atmosphere, which means lots of noise and very informal service, then try “Lilliccu” in Via Sardegna. Normally starters, main course, coffee & house wine will come up at around 35 euros each.

A very cheap, extremely informal but good one is called Vai che ce n’e‘ (Viale Sant’Avendrace 261). It is not in the central and most touristy area though. The menu choice is limited to pizzas, grilled steaks (horse and veal), and salads. It is very popular so do expect queues. When you get there you need to ask for a table straight away. You will be given a number and a beer and wait outside. When your table is nearly ready, you are brought a menu (still outside) and your order is taken. Soon after you sit down, which can take a while, your delicious stake or generous pizza comes around. The owner is extremely kind and very good fun and your bill normally comes to be around 12-15 euros including wine, pizza bread, coffee & mirto.

Bye for now!
Manu

Also, If you are staying in Cagliari you could spend the night at the Apartment Mara