Our Blog offers tips for your holiday in Sardinia, if you want advice on where to stay or what to do in Sardinia you are in the right place. We are pleased to talk about our beautiful island and we will like to hear from you as well. The content is divided in categories that you can find on the right bar. If you have already an idea of what part of Sardinia you are staying see our GEO BLOG page to discover our posts about the area in a map. Even specific categories can be opened in a map. If you don’t find the right tip for you, feel free to contact us and we’ll try to do our best.

Two pushchairs do not fit in the boot..should we have hired a bigger car??
First step: do we take the panoramic road, driving on the cliffs, facing blind bends and enjoying the stunning views, or should we take the new, fast road? As we are now family and we are not sure if babies can get car sick, we decide to go for the new road.

We left Cagliari towards Villassimius, but at the crucial point, Paolo started to cry,  we got anxious and confused so we turned into the wrong exit, which goes straight back to Cagliari! Impossible to turn back, we had to drive until we found an exit and start again!

That costed us 20 minutes, but eventually we got back on track. After Torre delle Stelle and just before Solans, we took the new 125 road and that was fine, although this eventually joint the old road and we drove for 20 minutes on the older and bendy road along the cost. Like in the old times, when I was the child, we stopped for a cry and a rest, fed Paolo, looked at the amazing endless sea. It took us ninety minutes to get to Monte Nai, the village where my cousin’s house is.

Monte Nai is a pretty summer village where many people from Cagliari and nearby villages have got their summer houses. There are grocery shops, a proper fish monger, some pizzerias, and a little square where people go out for a walk and a chat at night. The square was not as busy as it used to be, and it seemed that there is no more such a crazy night life as I remembered, with clubs and bars or shops open until late. We found it so calm, but just fine for us.

We staid in a beautiful villa with garden, as most of them are. It was hot but we slept on the ground floor where it was cooler. We would wake up early and have a nice cappuccino and a croissant at the local bar, then go to the beach by the ex Escargot Club. We had our parasols, but if we had not had them, there were some for hire together with deck-chairs in a beach further down.

The water was as crystal clean as I could recall and it was just beautiful. We did not stay too long because of the babies, so we went back to the villa for lunch, then had a nap. The day was so beautiful and hot that we went back to the beach at 7PM when it was warm but pleasant, and had a swim with the babies! We stayed until 8.30 in the evening then back. We went for a nice pizza later. Lovely!

Day after was a completely different story. It got very windy with the Maestrale wind, which I hate. Whenever it is windy in Sardinia and you want to go to the beach, you have to think as the Sardinians do.  First, what kind of wind is it? Where does it come from? Once you know that, you have to choose a beach or better a bay, where having taken into consideration the direction of the wind and the position of the beach, it is less likely that the wind will blow the sand. For us, that day, there was only one choice, Cala Pira – 15 minutes drive away going south.

This spot, was once totally wild and known only by the locals. Not that day. The wind was so exceptionally strong, that it was really crowded and unpleasant anyway. As if this was not enough, there was a ban to park nearby the beach. We should have had parked and walked 15 minutes to get there, with prams, babies, bags and parasols, which you can not hire in Cala Pira. Luckily my cousin dropped us nearby, and then he went to park. After only an hour, we left. We had lunch and relaxed in the villa before driving back to Cagliari. Not the best day, but we were still sad to leave such a beautiful spot!

So, yes, Costa Rei is beautiful and a good place for families, but forget about wild beaches and mind the bends!

Manuela

Do not expect to reach it too easily though…you need to make a little bit of an effort to get to this paradise, located in an area of Sardinia called Ogliastra and considered as “the island in the island” for the difficult accessibility (although nowdays this was very much improved) and unspoilt beauty of its coastline and mountains.

The nearest airport is Arbatax, which is very close but very little so unless you are lucky to get a flight for it, you will have to fly to Cagliari or Olbia and drive from there. It may look like easy at first but Sardinian roads are always a surprise and the 160 Kms that divide Olbia from Tortoli can easily turn in 4 hours journey on a very bendy road. Great to take pictures of this fab coastline but your kids may not like it! On the other side, there is now a brand-new fast road that from Cagliari goes very near to Tortoli ( and to Tortoli itself once completed). We used it two summers ago and we got to Tortoli in 90 minutes. If you are planning to reach Sardinia form Italy mainland, you could also take a boat to Arbatax’s pier.

Well, once you have reached Tortoli.. relax. Take your time and enjoy the beautiful beaches. One of the local and my favorite beach  is “la spiaggia di Orri” very well known for the gold sparkling effects of its sand and its crystal waters.

Very famous are also the red rocks of Arbatax, which did not do much to me but are still something you have to see if you are around. Going further north do not miss Santa Maria Navarrese beach, which is also stunning. Going South, Barisardo is one of the best.

Apart from the coast, the woods and the wine of the inside area are also a must see and must taste! The Cannonau of Jerzu is one of my favorite wines (very good with red meats and very strong..) and places like Ulassai with its beautiful waterfalls are great to see in the springtime. So here you are, ready to go?

]]> http://www.blog-sardinia.co.uk/tortoli/feed/ 0 39.9292221 9.7119141 http://www.blog-sardinia.co.uk/marinas-in-south-sardinia/ http://www.blog-sardinia.co.uk/marinas-in-south-sardinia/#comments Sat, 07 Mar 2009 14:29:24 +0000 Manuela http://www.blog-sardinia.co.uk/?p=151 Sailing in Sardinia is an amazing experience. It does not matter if you are an experienced sailor or just a beginner that hires a boat with a skipper. You will still feel privileged to witness how generous nature has been to this island.]]> This is the first post of our “Sailing Directory” by our friend Hiroshi.  Each time we will cover a specific subject or geographical area of Sardinia. Let’s talk about marinas in south Sardinia.

“I normally sail with a monohull with 2 mt draft, so some information may not be suitable to those who have a deeper boat, but it will be ok if you are the lucky owner of a catamaran.

There are 9 accessible marinas from S.Pietro Island (SW) to Porto Corallo (SE) that I briefly want tell you about.

-Porto di Carloforte
It is a pretty big harbour that assures the connection between Sardinia main island and the small island of S.Pietro, of which Carloforte is the only town.
Inside the harbour there are different pontoons, managed by different companies. Restrooms and showers are quite poor though.
It is a must to visit Carloforte, so do plan at least a night stop in this marina and be prepared to some water movement during the night. This is due to the ferries’ traffic. If you can, try to avoid the very busy month of August.

-Marina di Calasetta
It is a good  and cheaper alternative to Carloforte. You will not suffer any traffic related water movement during the night as ferries do not come close to it. The marina is also smaller and you will find a really friendly atmosphere together with clean and big restrooms with showers. Nearby the marina’s office there is a cheap but excellent restaurant where you can have a nice dinner. You can still reach Carloforte in only 15 minutes by ferry.

-Porto di Teulada
A very big marina but almost nothing around it. The staff are very helpful and normally will assist you with anything you may need. Facilities are pretty poor though and there is no gas station! If you need diesel ask the guy at the marina and he will kindly get it for you the day after. I normally tip him for this service.
Nearby the marina (5minutes walk) there is a camp site with a bar – pizzeria and a small shop similar to an off license where you can get some food and groceries.
If you wish to have a meal inland, you will be pleased to know that some restaurants offer transfers from and to the marina for dinner…so you can drink all the mirto you want!
-Marina del Sole
Sailing East, the first decent marina is in Cagliari. Do skip the previous ones as they are not deep enough.The Marina del Sole is inside Cagliari’s harbour and it is the cheapest one. Don’t expect any cool facility, there is just a restroom and a shower but if your boat needs some fixing, they can deal with it. There are many English and Germans that permanently live in Cagliari so you may meet some old friends
It is also close to Cagliari therefore if you have a bike you can enjoy our main city.

-Marina di S.Elmo
It is very close to the Marina del Sole so you could mistake them.
This one is much more expensive though and offers better facilities such as washing machines and bigger (but not too much) showers. As the previous marina, it is close to the city.

-Marina Piccola
A small marina and one of the favorite places for a night walk in the city during the summer season.
You may want to pick this as you can easily anchor outside the harbour in really clean waters and have a good swim. It is served by restaurants, a good sandy beach and excellent ice creams bars.
Unfortunately the restrooms and showers are not at the same standard.
Pay attention at your draft, the entrance is about 1.90 – 2.00 mt. max

-Marina di Capitana
Without any doubt, the nicest marina in the area. It offers many facilities including a restaurant, a hotel with wellness and clean showers. Unfortunately there is not any village or town nearby so your nightlife will simply consist in a having a beer at the marina’s bar.

-Marina di Villasimius
It’s a big and well served one located inside the protected area of Villasimius. You will find good facilities but if you want to have a shower you will have to get a coin at the Marina’s office.
Extremely busy in July (week-ends) and August (everyday) you will have to reach the marina not later than 5.30 pm if you want to be sure to get a place.
A small tip: if there is not wind during the night and you want to use your anchor, there is a safe and wonderful anchorage point right in front of the port main entrance (2.50 mt draft max), where you can stay ’till 8.30 am when the police will ask you to move away.

-Porto Corallo
Go there just if you have no other choice as there is nothing around. Facilities are really poor and it makes sense to stop only if you need a break during your trip.”

Hiroshi

Thanks Hiroshi for all this info!! – Manu

Those who love walks in the countryside and mountains may not think to Sardinia
as their holiday destination but you will be surprise to discover the beautiful
colours of its vegetation and flowers in the springtime. If you love orchids
then, you will be really impressed by Sardinia’s wild
ones…more than fifty different varieties.

If you like the snow instead, you can take some lovely walks in the months
of January and February around the village
of Fonni. Do not expect great skiing
facilities though! Sardinia’s mountains are not very high and skiing is not
our thing really but you can still enjoy lovely views, meet our wild goats and
taste great food in some cozy farmhouse…

Top tips: We have some friends that run some lovely tours about orchids if you are interested:

http://www.sumori.it/viaggi_orchidee_en.html

Ciao

Manu

Despite this, everybody liked the experience, more because of the spectacular views and sights we could see than the service we received. It is magic to swing between the blue of the sea and the sky of this stunning coast…

If I was you though, I would go on a less busier day during the week and I would not bother to go down the “Isola del Cavoli”. Although the idea sounds good the beach is very poor where the boat lives you. No commentary in English was given or available, I am afraid!

Also, some other companies with smaller boats offer this service from Cagliari or Villasimius, maybe you can try one of those. In some of these lunch consists in what is fished on the same day from the boat!

Ciao

Manu

If you are thinking to visit the south west of Sardinia, this is really the place you can not miss.

A place, which beauty is so amazing to look like surreal. This is Masua, a tiny hidden beach where I left my heart last summer. A sandy beach surrounded by the mountains and overlooking the white rock/islet of Pan di Zucchero emerging from the deep blue waters. You only seam to miss a ship pf pirates in the picture..

To get to Masua is really easy. From Cagliari you should take the 130 road towards Iglesias for about 40 minutes. You go always straight until you find directions to turn right for Nebida. Follow that. You will drive for about six kms. This road is very bendy and runs over cliffs but the views are spectacular and this journey is really part of the whole experience. You may want to stop to take some beautiful pics.

When you see directions for Masua, you will start to go down towards the beach and there you are!

Enjoy!

Manuela

PS: a bar, canoa hire and toilets are available. Parking can be limited on a week-end in August and sometimes in July as it can get busy so try to go early.

2) Directions are not always good, so check your route on a recent maps before you start going.

Ciao

Manu

There are four lines:

From Nulvi to Palau and return (North Sardinia)

From Bosa to Macomer and return (East Sardinia, Bosa is not too far from Alghero)

From Isili to Sorgono and return (centre of Sardinia)

From Mandas to Arbatax and return (West Sardinia)

There are many stations in-between so you can jump in at any time, but you do need to check timings very well, as even small part of the journey can take around 3 hours or more! It is an experience for people who like to observe, explore and take it easy. You can buy the ticket at the train station or on the train itself and this is valid for 3 days. Then, you can stop in some of the villages for a walk and take the following train or also spend a night there and continue the day after. It is not even expensive, depending on which route you choose it will cost you 12-15 euro. The normal train service also connects you to some of the routes.

So, if your holiday in Sardinia is not just about lying on the beach, it is definitely worth trying!

I have used this number in the past for information: 0039 070 343 112 but you can also ask at any tourist information point when you are there.

TOP TIP:

Even if D.H. Lawrence said “it does not matter where the train goes just catch it”, do check timing and routes in advance and be aware that some trains do not run every day…!

Manuela

It is very well served with bars where to eat and hiring of sport equipments, parasols, deck chairs etc. If I well recall there is also a Beach Volley field.

The bay is dominated by a Spanish tower that was built during the Spanish domination in the XV century to fight the Arab incursions.You can reach it from the beach if you wish to visit it and enjoy a faboulous view from there.

To get to San Gemiliano beach from Arbatax take the Via San Gemiliano then turn into Via D’Annunzio and follow the street up to the beach. You are there!!