Do not expect to reach it too easily though…you need to make a little bit of an effort to get to this paradise, located in an area of Sardinia called Ogliastra and considered as “the island in the island” for the difficult accessibility (although lately this has very much improved) and unspoilt beauty of its coastline and mountains.
The nearest airport is Arbatax, which is very close but very little so unless you are lucky to get a flight for it, you will have to fly to Cagliari or Olbia and drive from there. It may look like easy at first but Sardinian roads are always a surprise and the 160 Kms that divide Olbia from Tortoli can easily turn in 4 hours journey on a very bendy road. Great to take pictures of this fab coastline but your kids may not like it! On the other side, there is now a brand-new fast road that from Cagliari goes very near to Tortoli ( and to Tortoli itself once completed). We used it two summers ago and we got to Tortoli in 90 minutes. If you are planning to reach Sardinia form Italy mainland, you could also take a boat to Arbatax’s pier.
Well, once you have reached Tortoli.. relax. Take your time and enjoy the beautiful beaches. One of the local and my favorite beach is “la spiaggia di Orri” very well known for the gold sparkling effects of its sand and its crystal waters.
Very famous are also the red rocks of Arbatax, which did not do much to me but are still something you have to see if you are around. Going further north do not miss Santa Maria Navarrese beach, which is also stunning. Going South, Barisardo is one of the best.
Apart from the coast, the woods and the wine of the inside area are also a must see and must taste! The Cannonau of Jerzu is one of my favorite wines (very good with red meats and very strong..) and places like Ulassai with its beautiful waterfalls are great to see in the springtime. So here you are, ready to go?
You can take some lovely walks on the mountains around the village of Fonni during the months of January and February but you should not expect great skiing facilities though! Sardinia’s mountains are not very high and skiing is not our thing really (somewhere in the seaside of the island somebody could be swimming and sunbathing on the same day!).
So probably more than for the sky lovers this is a holiday break for those who enjoy exploring, getting in touch with nature and see animals such as our wild goats or taste great food in some cozy farmhouse.
In the same kind of area the springtime is the best time for hiking and if you love flowers and in particular orchids. You will be really impressed by Sardinia’s wild ones as we have got more than fifty different stunning varieties.
Top tips: to know more about orchid tours you can click here.
Ciao
Manu
If you are thinking to visit the south west of Sardinia, this is really the place you can not miss.
A place which beauty is so amazing to even seem like surreal. This is Masua, a tiny hidden beach where I left my heart last summer. A sandy beach surrounded by the mountains and overlooking the white islet of Pan di Zucchero that emergs from the deep blue waters. You only seem to miss a ship of pirates in this picture..
Reaching Masua is really easy. From Cagliari you should take the 130 road towards Iglesias for about 40 minutes. You go always straight until you find directions to turn right for Nebida. Follow that. You will drive for about six kms. This road is very bendy and runs over cliffs but the views are spectacular and this journey is really part of the whole experience. You may want to stop to take some beautiful pics.
When you see directions for Masua, you will start to go down towards the beach and there you are!
Enjoy!
Manuela
PS: a bar, canoa hire and toilets are available. Parking can be limited on a week-end in August and sometimes in July as it can get busy so try to go early.
Where to stay to explore the area? Try these: Apartment Jazz & The Danish Villa.
It is a really tiny train that goes very slowly and allows you to enjoy stunning wild views and small hidden villages. Probably the very first British persons to board one of these trains were DH Lawrence and his wife in 1921.
There are four routes:
From Nulvi to Palau and return (North Sardinia)
From Bosa to Macomer and return (East Sardinia, Bosa is not too far from Alghero)
From Isili to Sorgono and return (centre of Sardinia)
From Mandas to Arbatax and return (West Sardinia)
There are many stations in-between so you can jump in at any time but you do need to check timings very well as even small parts of the journey can take around 3 hours or more! It is an experience for people who like to observe, explore and take it easy. You can buy the ticket at the train station or on the train itself and this is valid for 3 days. Then, you can stop in some of the villages for a walk and catch the following train or even stop for an overnight there and continue the day after. It is not even expensive, depending on which route you choose it will cost you 12-15 euro. The normal train service also connects you to some of the routes.
So, if your holiday in Sardinia is not just about lying on the beach, it is definitely worth trying!
I have used this number in the past for information: 0039 070 343 112 but you can also ask at any tourist information point when you are there.
TOP TIP:
Even if D.H. Lawrence said “it does not matter where the train goes just catch it”, do check timing and routes in advance and be aware that some trains do not run every day…!
Manuela
If you intend to take the Bosa route and stay in this pretty town there are some villas here where you could stay.
The Costa Verde, is on the south-east side of Sardinia. My favorite place here is Piscinas, located at about 25 KM from Arbus. What it is so special about it are the huge dunes of unbelievable thin amber sand that dominate this side of the coast, together with the usual stunning crystal waters of the sea. It is such a powerful and spectacular view that made Piscinas one of the Unesco world heritage sites. It is not so easy to get here (do not worry, we will give you directions!) which means no crowds (yes!) but also not bars or toilets..
This area of Sardinia used to be full of mines, then dismissed, which have being turned into fascinating geo-mineral parks open to visitors in recent times. If you visit Montevecchio, you will have the chance to explore the mines galleries and some of the historic villas that were built by the owners of the mines. Montevecchio is surrunded by woods and if you love trekking you may be lucky and see a some of the beautiful Sardinian deers or wild boars!
Other interesting places to visit are Ingortosu (ex miners village), Fluminimaggiore; Gonnosfanadiga (archeaology) and Guspini. There are many activities that you can take in the Costa Verde: trekking, horse riding, snorkeling, diving, excursions by Quad..and apparently you can take a tour on carriages pulled by donkeys (never tried this last one but let us know if you do!!).
If you want to spend some days in Arbus try clicking on our Hotel category on the right or look at our villas in the area like the The Danish Villa….
Enjoy!
Manuela
PS. Be aware that there are two places called Picinas in Sardinia!
Again, a piece of paradise on earth.. a place of rock and crystal water
Cala Gonone is a little fishermen village located in the Gulf of Orosei. It looks over a stretch of cost where you will find some of the most beautiful beaches in the med. Some are wilder, such as Cala Luna & Cala Mariolu, others also suitable for families such Palmasera, or even Centrale. The nearest airport is Olbia.
Apart from the incredible beaches, it is also a great destination for those who love trekking or even free climbing and bungee jumping (not my case!). Su Gorroppu, S’Abba Durche, Cala Fuili – Cala Luna are all enchanting and very popular itineraries for the trekking lovers.
Finally, you can take a boat excursion to the grottoes of del Bue Marino or visit some of the nearby archaeological sites like Tiscali (yep…this is where your broadband name comes from!). To visit the Bue Marino’s grottoes you will need to visit the information point in Cala Gonone’s pier.
Actually I forgot the food! Superb! Do not miss the local gnocchi: “anzellottos”
Manu
Now, I can not wait to go there again !
The Cape of Saint Elia lays in the center of the Gulf of Cagliari and it consists in limestone rocks that were once covered by the sea (that is why there are so many fossils!). Despite the wind that constantly blows on these dry rocks, a wild & strong vegetation flourishes here. It is a very particular mix of Mediterranean vegetation with evergreen bushes.
The cape is formed by two hills (Saint Ignazio and Saint Elia) which look of a different colour every season depending on the flowers that bloom on that period. From November to January you get romantic light blue and purple and in spring an amazing bright red. Many other flowers and “officinali plants” (herbs and plants that have a beneficial influence on human body) grow there as well.
For its strategic location, with spectacular views on the south coast, the cape has always been a natural defense point and a safe place where to live. Defensive towers and underground tunnels were built over the centuries and in use until to the Second World War.
Today you can, as I do, have lovely walks around this not very visited area of Cagliari enjoying great views and breath some marine fresh air! Definitely worth it!
Massimo
This was a Punic, Phoenician and then roman city located on the very tip of the Gulf of Oristano. Nowadays, it is basically an open air museum surrounded by the sea.. spectacular! You can walk around the ancient ruins and then up to the top of the promontory to the Tower of San Giovanni that dominates this site. I recall enjoying the views of the endless sea and the peace of this place from there. Even you are not a heritage fan, you will love this.
The ticket to the site is cheap, about 4 euro, and also includes entrance to the museum of Cabras (not far from Tharros), where many of the objects that where discovered in Tharros are displayed.
If you want to mix culture and sunbathing, drive north to the beautiful and famous beach of “Is Arutas”, this is a must if you are visiting in Spring or Summer. It is also worth to take a panoramic drive along the cost going north to enjoy the blue views. There are many other things to see and do around here so you might want to book an hotel or a farmhouse and spend some days in this area.
Looking for an unusual winter break? have a thought about going to the “Sartiglia”, the traditional carnival of Oristano. It is a spectacular, colorful and very ancient equestrian game in which brave horsemen compete with one another in a tournament. The aim is to select the figure of Su Componidori, a horseman that wearing a mask of a mysterious God will pierce a star. The Sartiglia is a festival of magic & prosperity and it is very important to the locals. Dates change every year but it is normally in February.
Top tips:
If you go to the Sartiglia, book an hotel or alternative accommodation well in advance as it get very busy!
and…directions Cagliari-Tharros!
Ciao
Manuela
Since I was a teenager Alghero was one of the top favourite places to go for my summer holidays, main reasons being its fabulous night life, good camping sites and lots of nice beaches nearby…(Le Bombarde was my favourite one).
But now that I am older and wiser… Read the rest of this entry »
Which is the best part of Sardinia Manuela?
I have been asked this question so many times and here is my answer for you: Sardinia is all beautiful from north to south. Where you go depends on what you are looking for, but if you are looking for the unusual and the most authentic side of Sardinia, then you have to aim for its rocky heart.
From the villages of Oliena and Orgosolo with those beautiful and controversial Murales (graffiti) to Mamoiada and its mysterious carnival masks; from the spectacular views of the “supramonte” of Oliena down to the woods of Gavoi, Tonara, Fonni. And if you still miss Sardinia’s blue waters among all this green, head for Tortoli and visit its golden beaches, or go all the way up to the Gulf of Orosei stopping every now and then to enjoy its paradise bays. Read the rest of this entry »
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